Having a crane available in the workshop, I put the Rebel to the expected maximum positive angle of attack. So I put it into 15,5 degree positive angle and measured the fuel flow. We put a minimum (5 liters) into each tank and measured the flow. Left tank delivered 24 and 32 […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
I decided to build the carburator heat intake myself. I used a “Cessna like” design. Build from a stainless steel sheet and some stainless steel clamps. A friend welded the flange on it.Continue Reading... No Comments.
The intake at the front is also build from aluminu. Appropriate 2 1/2 inch ducting puts the air to the air cooler in the back.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Best position for the oil cooler seems to be in the back of the cowling. There is plenty of space and so I decided to put it there, build an appropriate housing and use ducting to get the air from the front to the cooler. After deliberating whether to build it from glass fibre or […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Seats are ready. A local upholstery did it for us. We took care they are not too thick, cause I am very tall. Otherwise I couldn’t have an easy look out. This is how the cabin looks like now. It is really spacious. Enough room for luggage.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Cowling is now near to completion. Spinner and prop are installed. I am preparing for the first engine start. But I have to move the plane first to be able to install the wings with the tanks.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Fuel hoses are installed. I protected them with special kevlar heat protection tube. Again bought in car tuning shops.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Water cooler is installed. I used silicone hoses. They are better than the normal ones and even cheaper. Easily to get in some car tuning shops. Furthermore the blue colour looks really nice. The water cooler itself is installed near the air outlet. I hope it will produce enough cooling power.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Cutout in the spinner are done. They now have a close fit to the propeller. Fabricating the cutouts is easy and straightforward with a Dremel tool.Continue Reading... No Comments.
To solve the propeller problem, a friend fabricated a special spacer plate for me. It is really a nice piece of art. Fabricated from aluminum on a computer CNC machine. The spacer solves the prop problem. There is now a good fit at the spinner plate.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Oil cooler is installed. It is installed in the back of the engine compartment. I will install a special hose to get more air into this position. Oil cooler is equipped with a temperature vent, so even in Winter I will get a normal operation temperature.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Dashboard is nearly complete now. Only transponder is missing, this will be installed just before the first flight. On the right side you can see the IPad we will use for navigation.Continue Reading... No Comments.
We acquired and installed the radio. We bought the KRT 2 model from Dittel-Avionik. Nice radio, not too expensive (compared to others). Of course ready for the upcoming 8,33 KHz spacing in Europe. I do not have the radio permission yet, will buy this when I start testing. So antenna is not connected yet and […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
As recommended by Rotax, we decided to install a fuel return line. This return line protects from vapor locks. It took some time to bend the appropriate 1/4 inch aluminum line. This lines starts from the firewall just below the main fuel line on the left side, then runs behind the mixer. As required all […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Trying to install the spinner, we experienced a problem with the propeller. The propeller already flares out in the radius of the spinner plate. We will have to figure out how to handle this. Spinner size can’t be reduced otherwise it does not fit to the nose cowl. Getting a different prop will be an […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
The MC-7 nose cowl has nothing appropriate for the cowling doors to sit on. So I installed an aluminum strip along the edge of the cowl. The cowling doors can then sit on this strip. Fabricating this strip is not so easy as it looks, unfortunately is has to have appropriate curves to fit to […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Having nice wooden flight sticks, my wife also wanted an appropriate improved (better looking) flap handle. With the support of a friend in “wood business” I fabricated the wooden flap handle in the picture below. Much better looking, but only experimental builders can afford such a time consuming part 🙂Continue Reading... No Comments.
It was still rather cold in the garage. So we reduced our work in February and March. Nevertheless progress was made on the cowling. Picture below shows all parts of the cowling before riveting.Continue Reading... No Comments.
All cowling doors are finished. So the first phase of the cowling is done. Before doing the final hole drilling I did a test fit of the spinner. It fits quite well. It’s not optimal, it could be 2 mm higher, maybe I can correct this when the rivets and screws are fixed. There is […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
We continued to work on the cowling. On the left side of the cowling we needed some more space on the underside due to the exhaust pipe. So I build a angle from 0.032 and used the shrinker to get a nice round contour where the cowling door will sit on.Continue Reading... No Comments.
After building the frame for the cowling, the doors are built. I did a mockup with posterboard first and then build the final door from 0.020 aluminum.Continue Reading... No Comments.
After we received the spinner, it is clear how much space we need between the spinner plate and the nose bowl. So we could start constructing the cowling frame. I used 0.032 angles (8 of them) for the frame. The nose cowl has a 30 mm narrow strip from 0.032 aluminum installed around the flange. […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
EGT Probes were also welded to the exhaust, 10 cm behind the cylinder. We installed two probes in the two backside cylinders.Continue Reading... No Comments.
A friend welded the exhaust for me. He did a really great job. The TIG-welded parts look great.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Since our Rebel is heated by water, we installed a water vent inside the cabin (picture is behind the instrument panel). This vent controls the water flow to the heat exchange. I used a mechanical vent from a Volkswagen Bus heating. Incredibly cheap these auto parts.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Placed the control knob for the carburator heat in the panel. Panel is now hopefully complete. In the picture you can see the starter key, on the right there is the switch for the electrical fuel pump, then the carburator heat. The poti on the right is the fan control for the heating. The two […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Fixed the bowden cable for carburator heat at the airbox. Unfortunately Rotax did not have a proper end here for the bowden cable. So I fabricated a holder with a cable clamp to prevent the bowden cable from flipping back when pushing.Continue Reading... No Comments.
It took me some time to find a good position for the water radiator of the Rotax. Most installations put the radiator to the front of the cowling. I couldn’t find an appropriate position at the front, so a decided to use the air outlet for the radiator. So picture shows the radiator mounted […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Picture shows the fuel line routing on the pilot side. It is not an easy routing because of the other tubes on the left side. Nevertheless it all fits well. I am missing some fitting, so the fuel valve above is not yet installed.Continue Reading... No Comments.
To check the design of the cowling I used cardboard to build a mockup. Cardboard will be replaced by aluminum later.Continue Reading... No Comments.