I decided to build the carburator heat intake myself. I used a “Cessna like” design. Build from a stainless steel sheet and some stainless steel clamps. A friend welded the flange on it.Continue Reading... No Comments.
The intake at the front is also build from aluminu. Appropriate 2 1/2 inch ducting puts the air to the air cooler in the back.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Best position for the oil cooler seems to be in the back of the cowling. There is plenty of space and so I decided to put it there, build an appropriate housing and use ducting to get the air from the front to the cooler. After deliberating whether to build it from glass fibre or […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Fuel hoses are installed. I protected them with special kevlar heat protection tube. Again bought in car tuning shops.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Water cooler is installed. I used silicone hoses. They are better than the normal ones and even cheaper. Easily to get in some car tuning shops. Furthermore the blue colour looks really nice. The water cooler itself is installed near the air outlet. I hope it will produce enough cooling power.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Cutout in the spinner are done. They now have a close fit to the propeller. Fabricating the cutouts is easy and straightforward with a Dremel tool.Continue Reading... No Comments.
To solve the propeller problem, a friend fabricated a special spacer plate for me. It is really a nice piece of art. Fabricated from aluminum on a computer CNC machine. The spacer solves the prop problem. There is now a good fit at the spinner plate.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Oil cooler is installed. It is installed in the back of the engine compartment. I will install a special hose to get more air into this position. Oil cooler is equipped with a temperature vent, so even in Winter I will get a normal operation temperature.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Trying to install the spinner, we experienced a problem with the propeller. The propeller already flares out in the radius of the spinner plate. We will have to figure out how to handle this. Spinner size can’t be reduced otherwise it does not fit to the nose cowl. Getting a different prop will be an […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
The MC-7 nose cowl has nothing appropriate for the cowling doors to sit on. So I installed an aluminum strip along the edge of the cowl. The cowling doors can then sit on this strip. Fabricating this strip is not so easy as it looks, unfortunately is has to have appropriate curves to fit to […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
After building the frame for the cowling, the doors are built. I did a mockup with posterboard first and then build the final door from 0.020 aluminum.Continue Reading... No Comments.
After we received the spinner, it is clear how much space we need between the spinner plate and the nose bowl. So we could start constructing the cowling frame. I used 0.032 angles (8 of them) for the frame. The nose cowl has a 30 mm narrow strip from 0.032 aluminum installed around the flange. […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Fixed the bowden cable for carburator heat at the airbox. Unfortunately Rotax did not have a proper end here for the bowden cable. So I fabricated a holder with a cable clamp to prevent the bowden cable from flipping back when pushing.Continue Reading... No Comments.
It took me some time to find a good position for the water radiator of the Rotax. Most installations put the radiator to the front of the cowling. I couldn’t find an appropriate position at the front, so a decided to use the air outlet for the radiator. So picture shows the radiator mounted […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
To check the design of the cowling I used cardboard to build a mockup. Cardboard will be replaced by aluminum later.Continue Reading... No Comments.
We decided to install the Thorp T-18 nose bowl (MC-7 from Aircraft Spruce). Its just a matter of design and this one looked best for us. The cowling itself will be fabricated from aluminum. I will adapt the design of other Murphy builders with the “4-door cowling”. The nose is rather big for the […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
There it is, our propeller. I decided to go for a 3 blade ground adjustable propeller. It has a size of 1,82 m and should be good for our Rotax. It is made from Carbonfiber and looks really good. Manufacturer is GA-Prop, a finnish-ukranian company.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Propeller and prop spacer arrived today. Another important part of the plane. Since we want to use the MC-7 cowl from Aircraft Spruce we need a spacer for the propeller. This spacer puts the propeller 75mm in front of the engine. Not yet finalled fixed in this picture.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Picture shows the right side of the exhaust pipes. Before constructing and cutting them I had to fix the exhaust muffler. This was not easy since there is not really a good place to fix it. Adhesive tape (Tesa is my favourite) did the job. It looks a little bit strange, but the […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Today I did the exhaust pipes. This is a really exhausting job. Every piece needs to be measured and exactly cut. Picture shows the right side exhaust pipes. I fixed them with tape. A friend will do the welding job soon.Continue Reading... No Comments.
The Rotax Airbox did not fit to my installation at the beginning. The airbox conflicted with the motor mount. I long considered how to solve the problem. Discussions with motor specialists and the distributor followed. Some did not suggest a change to the original design. I solved the conflict by using 30 degree elbows […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Rotax 912S seen from the front. I am planning how to fabricate the cowling. I decided to make my own from aluminum.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Engine is installed with Lord shock mounts. The engine mount on the right is the standard one supplied with the engine. Unfortunately the Airbox does not fit to the motor mount. I need to find a solution for that,Continue Reading... No Comments.
Mounting the engine was much easier than expected. I often thought how to do this and considered to buy a motor lifter. But the Rotax 912 is only about 60 kgs, so we simply fixed it at the ceiling and with 2 persons where able to put it to the mount. Easy job of half […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Preparing the engine installation, we installed electrical and other things on the firewall. From left to right you can see: – Battery: we used Hawker Odyssey PC680, 12V 17Ah. There is a battery bracket available from ACS which helped for a quick installation. – on top of the battery is the master relay – on […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
The Rotax unpacked: 100 hp 912 ULS with an airbox. Everything is in the box from Rotax. Additional things we bought are oil vent and water temp vent.Continue Reading... No Comments.
A great day. We bought a brand new Rotax 912ULS engine. It just fits into my car, so the last kilometers from the distributor home were done in the luggage compartment of the car.Continue Reading... No Comments.