To get enough fresh air into the cabin, I installed a NACA inlet in the front. CAT ducting transfers the air flow to the cabin. The inlet I used is the “902 MA-A” from ACS. Inside the cabin the “whisperflo eyeball vents” allow regulating and directing the airflow. Ducting is 2 3/4″. Since the outlet […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
A fellow builder from the Netherlands recommended this Sikaflex 295 UV adhesive to me. He uses it to fix acrylic windows in the yachts the company he is working for is building. What is good for such top yachts must also be perfect for my airplane. Indeed this is perfect adhesive for the windshield. I […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
Today I installed the windshield. It was a relatively easy job. I used butyl tape (I still had this tape from building the house), Würth Scheibendicht and Sikaflex 295UV. I am pretty sure the windshield is waterproof and strongly fixed.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Retainer is ready for installation. Surface is clean and smooth. I do not paint the retainer, since I will paint it in the general aircraft color later.Continue Reading... No Comments.
As written in the manual I used Auto Body Filler to get a smooth retainer surface. This Auto Body Filler really works great. After 3 layers of this filler and some time of sanding, it ended up in a clean, nice and smooth surface. It works really quick. After 30 mins of drying you can […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
The photo shows the retainer in the raw format. It looks really ugly. You don’t think to get a nice smooth retainer at some point of time.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Last layer is this peel ply layer. It helps to get a nice, non waxy surface.Continue Reading... No Comments.
The windshield and other parts are coated with duct tape. On top if this tape the fibreglass retainer will be built. I used duct tape instead of wax paper. It worked quite well.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Instruments Panel has been installed this weekend. As you can see, there is an EFIS installed (TL-6624). This EFIS includes also motor control, so the panel is not so crowded. Space left in case additional instruments are needed. Besides the EFIS, we installed the following backup instruments: – Altimeter Falcon – Precision Vertical Card […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
The top retainer is from aluminum as well. It will be installed with 8-32 screws and additionally glued with PU.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Picture shows the right retainer, fabricated from aluminum. The lower retainer will be created from fibreglass.Continue Reading... No Comments.
The paint is done. I am satisfied with the result, easier than expected.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Before installing the windshield, the covered parts have to be painted. Since everything is installed, it’s necessary to do it in the garage. Therefore the garage need to be transferred into a paint booth.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Unpainted rivets on the painted cockpit parts give a nice finish. It looks really cool and will stay like this.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Instrument panel is finished. All holes are done, all parts painted. The instruments itself will be installed later. We decided to build removable panels. This way with a lot of screws we can unmount the front panels and easily work behind. Make maintenance and electrical work much easier.Continue Reading... No Comments.
With the help of some friends the parts for the instrument panel were painted. 2K color from Mipa worked well and give a strong surface.Continue Reading... No Comments.
I installed two computer fans for venting the windshield. A very easy installation. Seemed simpler to me than installing special ducting outlets. Below you can see the picture from the bottom. Foot heat will be transferred by the vents to the windshield and prevent it from getting foggy.Continue Reading... No Comments.
After the brakes were filled with fluid, I tested them. I put pressure on it and checked every connection. No leak occured. The parking brake is working well. Even after several days there was still enough pressure in the system that we could not move the wheels.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Filling the brakes with hydraulic fluid was a job I often thought of. Having done this never before, some consideration was made how to perform it. In the end it was an very easy job. Take a simple oil can with a small tube, connect it to the bleeding inlet at the bottom and […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
The manual says to insert the pedal return springs into a hole at the side of the motor mount. I did this first, but was absolutely unhappy with this. Very hard to put the spring into this hole and if you need to vary the spring position you need a row of holes in […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
We installed a parking brake in the Rebel. There is a very good description available online from Roee Kalinsky (http://www.kalinskyconsulting.com/rvproj/parkingbrake.htm). I copied this design with some modifications.Continue Reading... No Comments.
I decided to go with 4 brake cylinders. A lot of alignment work to get the pedals totally aligned. Although prepared before I had to wait for this step until the engine mount are positioned.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Finally the holes for the mount are done, the engine mounts in place. It was a lot of fiddling work. I wanted to be very precise here to have no play in the mounts. The screws are not the final ones (M5 instead of AN5-21). Unfortunately I do not have the screws. Another expensive […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
The picture shows the unsymmetric construction of the mount to withstand the turning forces of the motor.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Our motor mount was produced by a small company in Germany. We had luck that the Rebel is such a great plane. It is so great that there is a copy available (called “Wild Thing”) which is not unusual in Germany. The motor mount for this copy had exactly the dimensions I needed (how come […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
This picture shows the finalized right door. As you can see we decided to go for a full Lexan door. The view will be great from inside.Continue Reading... No Comments.
This is the slot in the upper door frame, where the upper door lever fits in. I deliberately did it asymmetrical. Thus when closing the lever the window is tightly pushed against the fuselage.Continue Reading... No Comments.
We built the door exactly as noted in the manual. Although I got several recommendations from some other builders, I decided to stay to the original design. In the end it was the right decision, I really like this type of door and the simple but effective closing mechanism. You can easy open the door […]Continue Reading... No Comments.
This simple lock is installed inside the left window. The lever on the back holds the window.Continue Reading... No Comments.
Finalized upper door lever. This lever is closed from inside and fixes the window. I used a simple black knob from the hardware store (1 Euro) as handle point. Works well.Continue Reading... No Comments.